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A Night in the Marshes

Buffalo at dawn, reeds at dusk — what it's like to sleep in a mudhif in Chibayish.

By Omar Hassan · 24 September 2026 · 1 min read

A Night in the Marshes

The boat pushes off before sunrise. Mist sits low on the water, and somewhere a buffalo calls. Our host, Abu Haider, has lived here all his life.

The mudhif

Built from arches of bundled reeds without a single nail, the mudhif is a guesthouse and meeting hall — and one of the oldest building forms on earth, depicted on Sumerian seals five thousand years old.

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